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Library of Congress* 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Cha 



cat, 



Shelf \ 

9 — 104 



CUBAandBACK 

—I N— 

/twenty-two DAYS. X / 



A. G. C. Jr. 




FROM THE PRESS OF THE 

Times Printing Jtouse, 

610 Chestnut St., Philada. 
1874. 



V 



76^ 



A Series of Five Articles originally 

contributed to 

"THE BEACON," 

A Monthly Amateur Journal of 

Merchantville, N.J. 

And, after some slight revision, published 
in this form for 
Private Circulation Only. F~ 



%ZI 




CHAPTER 



Page 5. 



Introductory. — Departure of the " Crescent City."— Our companions. 
—Seasickness.— Amusements.— The Sabbath.— A Memorable Dinner- 
First Glimpses of Cuba. — Morro Castle.— Havana. — The land-locked 
Harbor.— View from Steamer's Deck.— Waving Palms.— The Fleet of 
Boats. — Luscious Fruit. 



CHAPTER II. 



Page 14. 



At Anchor. — Awaiting the Spanish Officials. — The Landing.— Pass- 
ing the Custom House. — Drive through the City. — "Hotel El Tele- 
grafo." — Spanish Cooking. — Havana by Gas-light. — Daily Programme 
at Hotel. — Drive to Marianao. — The Lunch. — Strange Scenes. 



CHAPTER III. 



Page 20. 



The Market Place. — "Los Molinos/' the Captain-General's Garden. — 
Laughable Scenes at a Fire.— Description of " La Honradez" Cigar- 
ette Factory. — Visitor's Register. — The Cemetery. — The Bull-Ring. — 
Women in Havana. — Theatre Tacon. — "El Louvre."— Lottery. — La 
Dominica Fruit Preserving Establishment. — The Coming Sabbath. 



CHAPTER IV. Page 33. 

Sunday in Havana. — The Cathedral Services. — La Merced Church. — 
Leaving for Matanzas. — An Early Start. — Railroad Regulations. — 
Stopping at Union. — The Volante.— Our Visit to Sugar Plantation. — 
The Machinery. — Slaves. — Coolies. — The Nursery. — Some Facts and 
Reflections. 



CHAPTER V. 



Page 42. 



Matanzas. — " Hotel Leon de Oro." — Our Morning Drive. — Visit to 
the Caves of the Beautiful Sea. — Valley of the Yumuri. — Returning to 
Havana.— Our Departure for Home.— The Steamer " City of Wilming- 
ton." — A Stormy Voyage. — Some Parting Advice about Visiting Cuba. 



.. 






/Cfv^i? 



c>lLA 



&f 1 




*|To Cuba and Back 



—IN— 



TWENTY-TWO DAYS./ 



CHAPTER I. 

Introductory. — Departure of the " Crescent City." — Our Companions. 
— Seasickness. — Amusements. — The Sabbath. — A Memorable Dinner. — 
First Glimpses of Cuba. — Morro Castle. — Havana. — The land-locked 
Harbor. — View from Steamer's Deck. — Waving Palms. — The Fleet of 
Boats. — Luscious Fruit. 

Vy/HURSDAY, November 27th, we bid adieu to 
JM Cuba, its tropical greenness and beauty; five 
J days later we see the snow-clad highlands of 

I New York and are chilled by winter's icy 

Vj breath. In visiting the "Queen of the An- 
tilles," the land of orange grove and palm, a long- 
cherished desire has been gratified, and our fullest 
expectations met in its strange sights and luxuriant 
growth; our enjoyment marred only by the sad, sad 
picture of "Man's inhumanity to man," the cruelty, 
ignorance and degradation so prevalent throughout 
the Island of Cuba. Returning to the United States, 
more than ever do we appreciate the blessing of civil 
and religious liberty ; and deeply grateful are we that 
our lot has been cast in a Christian land. Desirous 
of sharing with others our delightful recollections, and 
hoping to impart pleasure and information, we attempt 
a description of the scenes and incidents connected 
with our trip To Cuba and Back in Twenty-two 
Days. 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



A journey of thirteen hundred miles- is before us; 
but unmindful of ocean's perils, with joyous anticipa- 
tions, we make our preparations for the voyage. The 
steamer Crescent City, of Clydes' New York and Havana 
line, is our choice; and on Tuesday, November nth, 
shortly before the time of departure, we are on board. 

A hurried glance at the elegant spacious cabin and 
our cozy state-room, confirms all we have heard in 
praise of the Crescent City, which, just from the ship- 
yard of Messrs. Cramp & Sons, Philadelphia, is prac- 
tically new, and this her first voyage to Havana. 
Ascending to the deck, we stand watching the busy 
and interesting scene presented. 

All is activity aboard the steamer, while upon the 
crowded pier confusion seems to reign. Amongst 
the many attracted by the departure of the Crescent 
City, we notice Mr. Thos. Clyde and his son William 
P. Clyde. They move restlessly about, in consultation 
with captain, engineer or stevedore; here and there, 
on steamer or pier, infusing their energy into all with 
whom they come in contact. Such men should be 
and are a source of pride, assisting as they do in the 
rapid development of our country. Few of our 
readers are aware of the vast extent of their opera- 
tions. In addition to this route (their latest venture), 
they have established lines from Philadelphia, New 
York and New Orleans to nearly every seaport on 
the Atlantic coast. Owning over fifty steamers, with 
a small army of employees, everything is conducted 
with system and dispatch. This personal attention to 
business — the great secret of their success. 

From a vessel at our side we are receiving ponder- 
ous castings — machinery for the sugar-mill of some 
Cuban plantation — their transfer to the deck of our 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



steamer proves quite tedious, being attended with 
considerable difficulty. 

At last all is in readiness, our fastenings are cast 
off, and — amidst loud hurrahs — the Crescent City 
glides from the pier, much to our gratification and to 
the relief of the Messrs. Clyde, whose anxiety has 
been that nothing should occur to prevent the prompt 
departure of the Crescent City, their pet steamer. 

With prow seaward we wend our way through the nu- 
merous shipping in the harbor. Onward we go ; night 
is fast approaching ; the lights of the great city grow less 
and less distinct, until all is shrouded in darkness ; and, 
chilled by the cutting wind, we seek the warmth of our 
cabin ; not, however, before Sandy Hook is passed and 
we are gently rocked by old ocean, causing us to realize 
that we are now fairly on our way to Havana. An hour 
later supper is announced ; seated at the table we learn 
who are our compagnons de voyage ; nearly every face 
bears a foreign imprint, but some are unmistakably 
American. There is no sociability, as just now each 
seems to realize the dignity of his or her position, and 
nothing beyond the coldest civilities are exchanged. 
Supper ended, drowsiness comes over us ; and retiring 
to our state-room, in blissful ignorance of the rising 
storm, we soon fall asleep, only to be awakened by the 
violent motion of the steamer as she plunges forward 
and is tossed by the angry waves. Morning appears, 
the storm rages even more fiercely, there is no induce- 
ment to arise, and we remain in our berth, nearly 
every passenger pursuing the same course. " Misery 
loves company," and it is some comfort that we are 
not alone in our sufferings. Oh ! seasick mortal ! 
what language can describe thy pangs, as with mind 
and body racked thou first fearest death and then 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



longeth for the grim messenger to end thy miserable 
existence. Fain would we draw the curtain over 
Wednesday's experience, referring to it only as a 
blank ; Thursday dawns bright and clear, and the 
welcome sunshine comes streaming in at the port-hole. 
Springing from our berth and quickly dressing, we 
hasten on deck ; the bracing sea air imparts new life, 
our lost appetite returns, and we gain courage to take 
our place at the breakfast-table ; at lunch and dinner 
new faces appear, until around the supper-table all 
are gathered. 

Our experience of yesterday has created a bond of 
sympathy; formality vanishes, and there is now 
manifested a kind and friendly feeling which deepens 
as the evening advances, and continues through the 
remaining days of our voyage. 

" Opposite Charleston, about seven hundred miles 
on our way," responds the mate, as at 10 o'clock 
Friday morning, we inquire of him our position. The 
sun is asserting his power ; we have a foretaste of 
tropical heat ; and right welcome is the cool evening. 
After supper we receive a Spanish lesson from our 
instructor, a Cuban, and before retiring have made 
some slight progress in the charming language. 
Saturday the awning is spread, and beneath its grate- 
ful shelter gather the passengers, reading or convers- 
ing, while" many indulge in cards or chess, and a 
game of quoits is in progress played with blocks of 
wood — an indulgence of our kind and obliging Ship's 
Carpenter. The ingenuity of all has been taxed to pro- 
vide entertainment ; each day has brought its variety 
of enjoyment; and the time has flown so quickly that 
that it seems but yesterday our voyage commenced. 
Sunday our eyes open upon a day of surpassing 



loveliness; through the port-hole we drink in the 
delightful morning air and catch a glimpse of Florida, 
the first land we have seen since leaving New York ; 
visions of orange groves and magnolia come crowding 
before our mind, but all we now see is a barren waste, 
and none of its charms are revealed to us, not even 
when on deck as with the Captain's glass we scan 
the uninviting coast. 

After breakfast we are afforded great amusement 
by a large school of porpoises, swimming just at our 
steamer's prow. Standing directly above them, we 
watch their every movement as they gaily disport 
themselves — maintaining their position with ease — 
until a pistol is discharged, and the ball striking the 
leader he immediately dives beneath the surface, the 
rest disappearing with him. 

Deeply interesting also the flying-fish so constantly 
appearing and the myriads of Nautiluses or"Portuguese 
men-of-war" looking so beautiful in the sunlight. 

Notwithstanding the charm and novelty of our 
surroundings-, our thoughts turn, this Sabbath morn- 
ing, to the loved ones at home. Gladly would we 
accompany them to the house of God. There will be 
no service aboard ; but a few Americans retire to a 
state-room and there with united hearts we invoke 
God's presence and blessing, and afterwards rejoin 
our fellow-passengers, most of whom are utterly 
regardless of the sacredness of the day. 

It is rumored that the dinner to follow, being the 
last on board, will excel all previous efforts ; at lunch 
we partake lightly, and at four-and-a-half o'clock, 
with keen appetite are able to show our full appre- 
ciation of the magnificent dinner set before us ; many 



io 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



are the thanks expressed for the generous provision 
which had enabled our able steward, Mr. Packard, 
to present so attractive a bill of fare. 



Sunday, Nove7nber ibth, 1873. 



NEW YORK AND HAVANA DIRECT MAIL LINE, 

STEAMSHIP CRESCENT CITY. 

T. S. CURTIS, Commander. 



BILL OF FARE. 



SOUP. 

A la Reine Oyster. Julliene. Tomato. 

PISH. 

Boiled Bass, Egg Sauce. Boiled Halibut, Anchovy Sauce. 

Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce. 

BOAST. 

Saddle of Mutton and Currant Jelly. Beef. Chicken. 

Pork. Goose. Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. 

Young Pig, Apple Sauce. Baked Ham, Champagne Sauce. 

BOILED. 

Veal. Stuffed Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 

Chicken, Parsley Sauce. Mutton, Caper Sauce, 

Pig's Jowls and Cabbage Sprouts. 
Corned Beef and Cabbage. Corned Pork and Turnips. 

GAME . 

Canvas-Back Duck. Wild Pigeon. Teal Duck. 

Mole and Mallard Duck. Saddle of Venison. 

Prairie Chicken. 

ENTREES. 

Chicken Salad. Potato Salad. Lobster Salad. Fried Oysters. 

Chicken Saute and fine herbs. Boiled Squab on Toast. 

Lamb Cutlets, Aux Petite Pois. Prairie Chicken. 

Potted Pigeon. Lobster Plain. Calves' Head, Brain Sauce. 

Fricassee Chicken. ' Calves' Feet, en tortu. 

VEGETABLES. 

Mashed Potatoes. Celery. Tomatoes. 

String Beans. Onions. Green Corn. Parsnips. 

Lima Beans. Carrots. Lettuce. 

Green Peas. Asparagus. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Turnips. Squash. 

DESSERT. 

English Plum Pudding, Stewed Sauce. 

Squash, Apple and Cranberry Pie. 

Madeira Wine Jelly. Tipsy Parson. 

Boston Cream Cake. Lemon Ice Cream. 
Blanc Mange. Charlotte de Russe. Jelly Tarts. 

Candied Fruits. Peaches. Prunes. 

Figs. Nuts. Raisins. Grapes. Apples. 

COFFEE. 

CHAMPAGNE AND TABLE WINES FREE. 



Our repast ended, we gain the deck just as the sun 
is setting. The golden orb as it sinks behind the 
western horizon, gilds the heavens with its departing 
glory, the whole scene reflected by the placid waters ; 
darkness quickly follows, revealing the phosphores- 
cent light shining this evening with unusual brilliancy; 
we seem ploughing our way through a sea of fire, 
and every wave is tipped with silvery light, while the 
heavens are resplendent with lustre, beaming from 
starry worlds. Yielding to the fascination of this 
lovely and peaceful tropical evening, the passengers 
linger long on deck. Our pleasant intercourse is 
soon to end, and saddened by thoughts of the sepa- 
ration which will come with the morrow, we are 
reluctant to say "good night." Onward presses our 
noble steamer, fast nearing the coast of Cuba. We 
could drop anchor in the Bay of Havana before 
dawn, did not Spanish law forbid the entrance of any 
craft between sunset and sunrise; a law so inviolable 
that were we fleeing from the fury of a hurricane, still 
would deny us the safe shelter of the harbor. We 
are anxious to be up bright and early, and retire 
with the assurance that we shall not be forgotten. 
Awakened by the promised knock at our state-room 
door, our toilet is quickly made and we reach the 
deck before the sun has risen. We are now abreast 
the island, and its long line of distant hills is- dimly 
outlined in the gray morning light ; soon we observe 
signs of life in the fishers' villages by the water's 
eflge, and can see them launching their tiny boats. 
Just before us, against the bright blue sky, looms up 
the tower of Morro Castle. 

Next we distinguish the outlying portion of Havana 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



—to the extreme right La Punta Fort, while more 
prominent is the massive white-walled prison just 
beyond. A cannon upon the fortress breaks the still- 
ness of the morning with its loud report, proclaiming 
that we are privileged to enter the harbor. Soon 
rounding the Morro Castle, almost grazing its rocky- 
base, our prow is turned toward the narrow channel, 
and saluting the fort as she glides by, the Crescent 
City rides upon the quiet waters of the land-locked 
bay. At this moment a beauteous scene is presented ; 
before us is Havana, its strangely-colored buildings, 
and tiled roofs, while in the background are low hills 
covered with tropical vegetation of richest green; 
the tall, graceful palm, standing outboldly, overtower- 
ing all. To our left stretches the long line of Cabanas 
fortifications, and in the distance the village of Regla. 
Turning again to the right we look upon Havana and 
its crowded shipping flying the flag of nearly every 
nation; but we must drop anchor and await the com- 
ing of Custom House and Health Officers, before 
steaming further up the bay. We see pushing out 
from the shore, and hastening toward us, numerous 
boats which soon surround us, and we are almost 
deafened by a loud chorus of boatmen's voices begging 
in Spanish or terrible English, the privilege of carry- 
ing us and our baggage ashore. Now arrive small 
sail-boats having aboard hotel runners who beseech 
and almost demand our custom for " San Carlos," 
"Santa Isabel," " Lalnglaterra," or " Hotel El Tele- 
grafo." 

We hear the shrill cry " Naranja," " Naranja" 
(oranges, oranges), and displaying some silver coins, 
quickly receive in exchange a bounteous supply. 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



13 



And now, beneath the awning, sheltered from the 
sun's scorching rays, we enjoy the luscious sun- 
ripened orange, while our eyes feast upon the strange- 
ly-beautiful scene before us : waving palms, placid 
water, quaint Havana; a scene more lovely than 
ever our imagination had pictured; a reality far 
exceeding our brightest dream. 




CHAPTER II. 

At Anchor. — Awaiting the Spanish Officials. — The Landing. — Pass- 
ing the Custom House. — Drive through the City. — "Hotel El Tele- 
grafo." — Spanish Cooking. — Havana by Gas-light. — Daily Programme 
at Hotel. — Drive to Marianao. — The Lunch. — Strange Scenes. 



UR delightful voyage from New York ended, 
the Crescent City drops anchor in Havana 
harbor, and soon we shall enter yonder quaint 
looking city. We are awaiting the arrival of 
the health officer, whose visit is necessary be- 
fore we can leave the steamer. Intensely interested 
in our strange and beauteous surroundings, we do not 
share in the impatience manifested by our fellow- 
passengers at his delay. Now our attention is directed 
to a six-oared boat, flying the Spanish flag, rapidly 
approaching, beneath its awning sit the Custom House 
and health officials ; reaching the deck of our steamer, 
they are met by the Purser, who reports all well, and 
presents the ship's papers, which receive a hasty 
glance, our permit to land is signed, and the cere- 
mony is concluded. All restrictions being removed, 
we are jostled and crowded by numerous visitors from 
the little boats about us; runners from the hotels 
pressing us sorely for our custom. The welcome 
sound of the gong is heard and we descend to the 
saloon for breakfast. Seated opposite to us at the 
table, is Mr. McKellar, Clydes' Havana agent, who 
has come aboard this morning to pay his respects 
to Capt. Curtis, and to inspect our splendid steamer, 




which he pronounces a great accession to the line. 
Advised by him we decide to patronize the "Hotel 
el Telegrafo," and after breakfast are introduced to 
the representative of that hotel, who promises to ac- 
company us there. A last glance at our cozy state- 
room, a hurried adieu to kind friends, and we follow 
our guide into the boat which is to carry us ashore ; 
our baggage follows. Now all is ready, the boatmen 
bend to their oars, a breeze fills the sail and away we go, 
fairly bounding over the water, toward the custom- 
house, a half-mile distant, where all foreigners must 
land. 

Arrived there we are assisted by our guide, who 
acts as interpreter ; without unnecessary delay our 
baggage is examined, and we receive our passport, 
properly vised. Passing through the gate we step 
into a cab and are rapidly driven through the narrow, 
alley-like streets towards our hotel, a succession of 
novel sights meeting our view as we dash along. The 
low buildings, painted blue, pink or yellow ; the 
barred windows of the dwellings ; the shallow stores, 
entirely open in front ; the odd vehicles ; the people ; 
their dress ; everything so strange, 

We find the "Hotel el Telegrafo" three-storied, 
with a projecting front, supported by stone pillars, 
and underneath a long line of show cases, filled with 
jewelry; passing inside we register, and are shown to 
our room, a spacious apartment with high ceiling and 
tiled floor, which proves to be splendidly situated, the 
low window opening out upon a balcony, from which 
we have a fine view of Havana ; while just across the 
street, in the public parade-ground, known as " El 
Campo de Marte," a market-place greets our vision. 



16 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



At once becoming interested in the scene before us, 
we are not content until, descending to the street, 
we cross over and mingle with the motley crowd of 
negroes, Chinese and whites moving about, the mur- 
mur of whose voices is comparable only to the 
confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel. 

In the booths, exposed for sale, are large piles of 
golden oranges, immense quantities of bananas, and 
heaps of yams, dates, guavas, pineapples and cocoa- 
nuts; also, a great variety of fruits and vegetables 
entirely new to us. 

Fain would we linger, but the odor arising from 
decayed matter upon which shines the rays of a 
noon-day, tropical sun, hastens our departure, and 
we return to our room, satisfied that " distance lends 
enchantment to the view." 

Now taking a cab we visit the office of Mr. Mc- 
Kellar, 76 Calle-de-Cuba, the head-quarters of Ameri- 
cans in Havana, where we exchange our gold for 
Spanish currency, afterwards calling at the United 
States Consulate ; thence to hotel, which is reached 
about 4 o'clock. 

Prejudiced against Spanish cooking by what has 
been told us of their liberal use of oil, we have an 
agreeable surprise in the very enjoyable dinner pro- 
vided. It is served in six courses ; the dishes, while 
they are mostly strange to us, are very palatable ; 
excepting, perhaps, the fried banana which needs an 
acquired taste. A dessert of delicate pastry, guava 
jelly and delicious fruit, followed by coffee, concludes 
the dinner ; but we linger to watch the people seated 
at the little tables scattered about the dining-room. 



IN TWENTY- TWO DAYS. 



17 



Wine is seen in nearly every glass, and very many 
are smoking, either cigar or cigarette. 

During the evening we see the city by gas-light, 
using again the four-wheeled, one-horse cab, of which 
there are over three thousand in Havana; charges 
regulated by law, being twenty-five cents to any point 
within the city limits, or one dollar per hour, if 
engaged " tiemfio" (time). 

We have greatly enjoyed our first glimpses of 
Cuban life afforded us in the visit to the market-place, 
and in our rides through Havana. 

Before retiring, we step upon the balcony and look 
out over the city, now brilliantly illuminated — a fairy 
scene. 

We retire, but not to undisturbed repose, as our 
couch is only a stout canvas stretched tightly over an 
iron bedstead, which proves decidedly uncomfortable. 

"When in Rome do as the Romans," — so we have 
resolved to follow the Cuban life, during our stay on 
the island. The daily programme of " Hotel El Tele- 
grafo " is as follows : — 



LUNCHEON at Early Morning, in 

Bedroom. 
BREAKFAST from q to 12. 
DINNER from 4 to 8 P. M. 



Accordingly, on awakening, we summon a servant 
and order naranja, platanos, el pan, la mantequilla, 
el cafe, (oranges, bananas, bread, butter, coffee,) 



which are quickly brought us and partaken of while 
dressing. 

For to-day (Tuesday), we have planned a drive in 
the country to the village of Marianao about 12 miles 
distant; breakfast over, at 10 o'clock we start. 

We are soon beyond the narrow streets of Havana, 
and upon the broad shaded avenue which leads to 
"El Cerro," a suburban village three miles out. To 
this point both sides of the avenue are lined with 
stores or dwellings, some of the latter very elegant, 
and with beautiful gardens attached; beyond "El 
Cerro," along the road are scattered small settlements, 
and Marianao proves to be a very insignificant 
village. We stop at its only hotel the " Nueva York," 
and having ordered a lunch, are ushered into a large 
room with tiled floor, in the centre of it a rug, around 
which are arranged, after the manner of the country, 
chairs facing each other; the waiter soon appears, and 
after spreading a clean white cloth, brings cheese, 
tongue, biscuit, butter and olives, also a generous 
plateful of fruit; then bringing some stalks of sugar- 
cane, he cuts them in pieces about six inches long, 
next pierces the eye of a green cocoanut, allowing the 
milk to drain into a pitcher. The lunch is ready — 
we have been greatly interested in its preparation, 
our eyes having fairly stood out as we watched the 
waiter's quick movements ; the ride has given us a 
sharp appetite, and we enjoy everything set before 
us ; extracting the juice of the sugar-cane we find 
it sweet and refreshing ; of the cocoamilk, however, we 
do not partake freely, having been warned of a ten- 
dency to disagree with those unaccustomed to its use. 
The country through which we have driven is truly 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



19 



magnificent, all nature teeming with loveliness about 
us, the tall palm, cocoa trees, and a luxuriant growth 
of cactus, aloes and other tropical plants, with acres 
of bananas. We meet horses and mules, bearing 
upon their hacks all sorts of burdens, baskets filled 
with fruit or vegetables, cages of live fowl, cans of 
milk, or bundles of sugar-cane ; and we are greatly- 
amused at the sight of a drove of horses in single 
file walking slowly beneath immense piles of corn- 
stalks, only their hoofs and the tips of their noses 
being visible. 

We see lounging about, hordes of dirty negroes 
and white people, the very pictures of laziness ; in fact, 
everybody seems half-asleep ; and we are reminded 
of a holiday in the United States, when only a few 
are working, and those indifferently. Nature is 
indeed lavish in her gifts, but it seems only to pro- 
mote a general disinclination for work. "Every 
prospect pleases and only man is vile." 

We return to Havana by the same road, reaching 
our hotel after an absence of five hours, every 
moment of which has been enjoyed. 



20 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



CHAPTER III. 

The Market-place. — "Los Mohnos," the Captain-General's Garden. 
— Laughable Scenes at a Fire. — Description of "La Honradez" 
Cigarette Factory. — Visitor's Register. — The Cemetery. — The Bull- 
Ring. — Women in Havana. — Theatre Tacon. — "El Louvre." — Lot- 
tery. — La Dominica Fruit Preserving Establishment. — The Coming 
Sabbath. 



O interesting the sights of Havana, so pleasant 
our quarters at "Hotel el Telegrafo " that we 
have been induced to prolong our stay until 
Monday, when we shall leave for Matanzas, 
stopping at Union, to visit a sugar-plantation 
in the vicinity. We have found Havana decidedly 
foreign; its architecture, streets, vehicles, people, 
dress, language, customs, all so quaint and strange, 
that we seem to be in some remote corner of the earth, 
and can scarcely realize that our United States, the 
land of progress and enterprise, is so near. The 
temporary market on "El Campo de Marte" (field 
of Mars), which our room overlooks, with its ex- 
tensive display of Cuban products, and the motley 
crowd in attendance, has been a source of unceasing 
interest. By special permission of the Government 
booths were erected by former occupants of the 
principal market, recently destroyed by fire, involv- 
ing a loss ©f several million dollars; to this mis- 
fortune do we owe the pleasure derived from the 
fascinating scene continually before us. During the 
week we have thoroughly explored Havana, and 
in addition to our drive to Marianao (already 



IN TWENTY- TWO DA VS. 



21 



described) have had frequent glimpses of the sur- 
rounding country. 

Just outside the city is " Los Molinos," the country 
residence of the Captain-General ; to the magnificent 
garden attached, visitors are admitted ; and there we 
spent a morning very pleasantly amidst the pro- 
fusion of most exquisite tropical trees, plants and 
flowers. Strolling about these grounds we discovered 
a beautiful grotto and an artificial cascade emptying 
into a lake, its shores lined with rank growth of 
bamboo, but most charming to us, of all this lovely 
picture, were the broad avenues of noble palms, whose 
towering height denoted great age. After leaving 
the Captain-General's garden, we visited "El Jardin 
de Aclimatacion," and purchased a small collection 
of plants, which we were assured by the proprietor 
(a Frenchman) could be safely carried to our home in 
Merchantville. Havana has a surprising number of 
churches, the almost incessant clamor of whose 
bells, commencing at early dawn, while it may serve 
to remind the 210,000 inhabitants of their religious 
duties, certainly becomes very monotonous to stran- 
gers. We have not been impressed with the grandeur 
of the church edifices, the one designated "Cathedral 
de la Virgen Maria de la Concepcion," a large an- 
cient-looking structure, being attractive only as con- 
taining the remains of Christopher Columbus, the 
great explorer, who on the 28th day of October, 1492, 
discovered the Island of Cuba and shortly afterwards 
the Western Continent. From history we learn that 
Columbus died in Valladolid, Spain, May 20th, 1505, 
the body was taken to Seville, 151 3, thence in 1536 
to St. Domingo, and on the 15th day of January, 1796, 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



was brought to Havana, and with great pomp and 
ceremony deposited in its present resting-place. At 
the left hand of the grand altar we were shown the 
tablet upon which is carved in alto-relievo, the bust 
of Columbus, and an inscription, which translated, 
reads : 



" O remains and image of the great Colon ! 
Endure for a thousand ages, guarded in this urn 
And in the remembrance of our nation." 



Ascending one of the towers we enjoyed a fine view 
of Havana, with its background of green-clad hills, — 
the far-famed land-locked harbor, its narrow entrance 
so well guarded by Morro Castle and La Punta Fort, 
and just beyond, stretching far away, the restless sea. 

The numerous "Plazas," or public parks, with 
their noble specimens of palm and "Laureles de India" 
are striking features of Havana, vast sums have been 
expended in their adornment, many of them con- 
taining marble fountains, statuary, etc. During the 
evening music is discoursed at the " Plaza de Armas" 
and several other parks by the military bands, these 
"Retreta,"or out-door concerts, beinglargely attended, 
even by the most aristocratic classes ; the ladies ap- 
pear in full dress, and usually remain seated in their 
carriages while listening to the music, though 
occasionally they may be seen promenading in com- 
pany with their gentlemen escorts. 

Happening one morning at a fire in the neigh- 
borhood of "Plaza de Armas," we had an exhibition 
of the excitability of these people ; the frantic actions 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



23 



and misdirected efforts of the firemen were highly 
amusing, while the loud outcries which arose from 
the assembled multitude served to make "confu- 
sion worse confounded." Water was poured from 
buckets into the antiquated fire-engines, which were 
worked by hand, and long lines of men stood 
holding the hose above their heads, (the reason we 
fail to comprehend) these lines reaching to the scene 
of the fire, a two-storied stone building, to which the 
flames were easily confined, notwithstanding that, 
owing to the entire absence of discipline and concert 
of action, the greater portion of the water was 
thrown upon the people and otherwise wasted. Never 
have we laughed more heartily than while watching 
the excitement which this trifling fire had occasioned. 
In Cuba smoking is universal, and to meet a person, 
young or old, who is not indulging in this national 
habit, is indeed a rarity. Tobacco is extensively 
cultivated on the island, and has a world-wide repu- 
tation for superior quality, Havana is the distributing 
point to other countries; and here is centered" 
the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes. Havana 
has about one hundred and twenty-five manufactories 
of cigars, besides a number where cigarettes are made, 
everywhere " Fabrica-de-Tabacos" meeting the eye. 
" La Honradez," which occupies an entire block, is 
the largest cigarette factory in the world; regular 
days are appointed for resident visitors, but to 
''Americans" the doors are always open. We were 
treated with the utmost politeness and the workings 
of this vast establishment fully explained to us. On 
entering, by request, we registered our name, resi- 
dence and occupation, after which we were placed in 



24 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



charge of a very gentlemanly usher, who led us first 
to the shops, where are made by machinery the boxes 
and barrels ; adjoining are a variety of machines, 
the motive power furnished by an engine made in 
Williamsburg, New York ; next we visit rooms where 
the tobacco is received and assorted, still further on, 
where it is ground and afterwards, by hydraulic 
pressure, formed into blocks of uniform size and 
weight. 

We examined some machines, of French invention, 
capable of making fifty cigarettes per minute, but 
almost too complicated to be of practical use. The 
. department of printing and lithographing proved of 
great interest ; here are produced for this factory vast 
quantities of labels, wrappers, circulars, etc., many 
of very tasteful design, and colored in the highest 
style of the art. 

In one room we saw about fifty Chinamen seated 
at tables, engaged in packing the cigarettes in bun- 
dles of twenty -three or twenty-six each, according to 
order. The quickness and precision with which the 
requisite number are picked up and enclosed in the 
wrapper was marvelous to us. 

Besides the large force at work in the building, 
(mostly Chinamen) the proprietors of "LaHonradez" 
employ the leisure moments of over two thousand 
porters, servants and soldiers, to whom they furnish 
the paper and tobacco, which is returned in " Tareas " 
or rolls containing five thousand and sixty-four 
cigarettes each. In the packing room is presented 
a busy scene; while the production of "La Hon- 
radez" is over two and a half-million cigarettes 
daily, so popular is this brand that there is never an 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



25 



accumulation of stock ; boxes and barrels around us 
awaiting shipment were directed to almost every 
country in the world. 

Returning to the office we were presented with a 
bundle of cigarettes and a printed copy of the 
"Visitor's Book," our name having been printed 
thereon while we were inspecting the factory. In 
this immense register we wrote opposite our name 
some comments on "La Honradez," which will be 
added to future editions of the "Visitor's Book," now 
numbering two hundred and ninety-seven pages, and 
containing thirteen thousand four hundred and sixty- 
seven names and comments, a few of which we 
present in illustration: — No. 6037, E. Lewis Quick, 
Broker, New York. (Recently of Merchantville.) 
"An immense concern and conducted with great 
ability." No. 13,167, J. S. Skinner, Broker, New 
Orleans. "This is indeed the most complete manu- 
factory in every branch that I have ever seen, and a 
visit to Havana would not be complete without seeing 
it; my thanks are due to the firm." No. 12,991, 
J. W. Hopper, Engineer, New York. " I consider, 
after close observation, that this is the most complete 
tobacco manufactory in the world." No. 12,883, 
Henry Baldwin, Jr., Philadelphia. "The business, so 
organized that every detail of a complicated manu- 
facture may be courteously and unreservedly sub- 
mitted to the inspection and criticism of strangers, 
may well claim for its motto 'La Honradez,' ('hon- 
esty' )." 

No. 2496, William H. Seward, Secretary of State, 
Washington. "Deeply impressed with the successful 
manner in which the proprietor has combined West 



26 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



Indian production with American invention, Euro- 
pean talent and Asiatic industry." 

Expressing our appreciation of the kindness shown 
us we depart, not, however, before we have purchased, 
in the retail department, some packages of cigarettes 
and smoking tobacco which we intend as presents 
to friends who are addicted to the use of the weed. 

We have seen nothing more striking than the burial- 
place " Cementerio de Cristobal Colon," on the out- 
skirts of Havana. It is divided by high stone walls 
into nine courts or hollow squares. The receptacles 
for the dead are niches, eighteen inches square, 
extending seven feet into the walls, in four rows, one 
above the other. Each court containing say nine 
hundred of these openings. After the corpse has 
been deposited (very often without a coffin), the 
entrance is closed by a slab, upon which is carved 
an inscription; in many cases a glass is placed in 
front, and in the space between (about three inches) 
is enclosed a wreath, crucifix or rosary. Not long 
since a party of young Cubans, students of the Havana 
Medical College, visited this cemetery; one of the 
number made a few scratches with his diamond pin 
on the glass at the tomb of Castanon, a Spanish 
general, which being discovered, seven promi c ing 
young men were, by order of the Spanish government, 
cruelly shot. Doubtless our readers have full knowl- 
edge of the particulars, and that this dastardly 
outrage, a foul blot upon the civilization of the nine- 
teenth century, met with universal condemnation. 

A certain philosopher has said, "judge a nation by 
its sports." Spanish cruelty is proverbial, and the 
sports indulged in by the masses serve to cultivate 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



27 



this characteristic. Cock-fighting is continually in 
progress, while Sunday is reserved for the Bull-fight, 
both being under Government patronage, highest 
officials of the island lending their presence at these 
most disgusting spectacles. We have had no incli- 
nation to patronize the Cock-pit, nor shall we dese- 
racte the Sabbath by attendance at the "Plaza de 
Toros" or Bull-ring. We had, however, sufficient 
curiosity to visit the building, a large wooden struc- 
ture, seats arranged in amphitheatre form, with ring 
in the centre entirely open to the sky. There are 
private boxes, that of the Captain-General being 
decorated with the Spanish colors. We were shown 
horses which are ridden by the "Picadores" (Lan- 
cers) ; they have the appearance of worn-out stage 
horses, poor, pitiable-looking beasts, far different from 
the noble steeds our imagination had pictured. The 
pantomime of our guide, with the descriptions pre- 
viously given us by eye-witnesses, have enabled us 
to clearly comprehend the manner of conducting 
a bull-fight. The bull on entering the ring, is at 
first confused by the shouts of the multitude, but 
soon is aroused by the " Banderilleros " (dartmen 
on foot), who display their red cloaks. The mounted 
Lancers approach; now to further excite the bull, 
sharp darts are thown by the "Banderilleros," and 
not unfrequently " Fuego " are used, torpedoes which, 
as they enter, explode and lacerate the flesh; and 
now if the infuriated bull disembowels one of the 
poor, blindfolded horses, the audience give every 
manifestation of delight, in which join fair ladies and 
children, and if the rider is gored, the entertainment 
is considered even more rare ; after the bull has been 



28 TO CUBA AND BACK 



sufficiently tormented, the "Matador" (swordsman) 
is summoned, who usually with one thrust slays the 
bull ; the carcass is then dragged from the ring and 
a live animal substituted. Can we wonder that 
the estimate placed upon life is so slight, that 
cruelty is so prevalent throughout Spain and her 
possessions, when such scenes form a portion of 
the education of her people. 

After our arrival in Havana, we first learned the 
fate of the captain and crew of the steamer 
" Virginius." We have been painfully aware of the 
dislike and bitterness entertained against Americans 
by the Spaniards here, and the expression of our 
indignation would probably endanger life. Thursday 
the "Virginius" was towed into the harbor by the 
"Tornado," its captor, their appearance has caused 
great rejoicing, and the principal streets are decorated 
with bunting, displayed in honor of the event. The 
"Tornado's" captain is the lion of the day, and a 
banquet has been tendered him by the " Casino," an 
organization of wealthy Spaniards, mostly slave- 
holders, which wields an immense political power 
on the island. Their club house, which we were 
privileged to visit, is one of the finest buildings in 
Havana, having cost several millions of dollars. 
The billiard room contains twenty -four tables, and 
there is a private theatre, with all the appointments, 
where performances are given for the amusement of 
the club and their guests. 

The "Tornado" a neat looking craft, is anchored 
just opposite the city, while the " Virginius" has been 
towed to the government arsenal, further up the bay. 

We engaged a boatman, who rowed us alongside, 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



29 



and thus had an excellent opportunity to inspect this 
noted steamer ; she has two smoke stacks, and her 
model, long and narrow, with sharp prow, would 
indicate great speed ; we cannot understand how she 
was overtaken by the "Tornado" seemingly to us, 
a much slower steamer. The grim sentries, pacing 
her deck, looked rather suspiciously upon us, and 
deeming "discretion the better part of valor," we 
did not linger long. 

One rarely meets a female walking in the streets of 
Havana, excepting negresses, their turbaned heads 
and long trailed dresses affording us considerable 
amusement. Ladies here do not even leave their 
carriages when shopping, but the goods are brought 
out for their selection by salesmen. Our admiration 
is not excited by the faces of the Spanish or Cuban 
beauty ; despite dark eyes, rich complexion, and 
regular features, their faces are uniformly expression- 
less ; and we look in vain for indications of intelli- 
gence or strength of character which the faces of our 
ladies exhibit. When, in our morning drives, we 
pass the dwellings, we have observed, through the 
low, iron-barred windows, the careless and slovenly 
appearance of the inmates ; and at evening, in driv- 
ing past, noticed these same untidy creatures entirely 
transformed by their elaborate toilets. From our 
limited observation we should judge that the social 
position and privileges of the females are far below 
those enjoyed by the women of the United States. 
Very generally their education is neglected, and there 
are many in the highest walks of society whose knowl- 
edge of history, science, and literature is more limited 
than that of some American school-girls of thirteen. 



30 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



The "Theatre Tacon," one of the finest opera 
houses in the world, can seat about three thousand 
people ; the prevailing color of the decorations is blue, 
and with cane-seated chairs, it presents a very cool 
and inviting appearance, entirely in accord with this 
"City of the Tropics." Just adjoining the "Theatre 
Tacon" is "El Louvre," the fashionable cafe, where 
one phase of Cuban life can be studied; vast crowds 
congregate every evening, and a prodigous amount 
of smoking and drinking indulged in. Some of the 
drinks are peculiar to Cuba ; we had been told to call 
for "Panales Frio," and were brought a tumbler of 
water and ice, across the top a delicate comb of sugar 
and white of eggs, this we dissolved in the water, and 
when a little lime juice was added we found it a very 
pleasant beverage ; but all are not of this harmless 
character, brandy and other liquors being constantly 
in demand. While admitting that but few cases of 
drunkenness are met with in Havana, we must express 
our conviction that the habitual use of wine by the 
people of the island does not tend to their elevation ; 
its cost makes serious inroads upon the scanty earn- 
ings of the laboring classes, depriving them of many 
comforts they otherwise would enjoy; besides, as no 
one will deny there are many instances where a 
thirst for strong drink is acquired and the inevitable 
ruin and sorrow follows. 

The selling of lottery tickets affords a livelihood to 
very many in Havana; everywhere we go these slips 
of paper are thrust into our face, and we are con- 
stantly importuned by children, old men, or crippled 
soldiers, to purchase a chance in the next drawing ; 
the hope of obtaining a fortune induces many to 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



31 



invest their last dollar, in fact all classes are addicted 
to this species of gambling. Desirous of rewarding 
the head waiter at our hotel for his polite attentions, 
we handed him three dollars which we afterwards 
learned were almost immediately invested in a lot- 
tery ticket. Lottery is conducted by the government, 
notwithstanding the acknowledgment that it exerts 
a most demoralizing influence, not confined alone to 
Cuba but extending to the United States, where 
"Havana Lottery" is extensively advertised and its 
agencies established in the principal cities. 

Should any of our readers visit Havana they must 
not omit seeing "La Dominica," an extensive manu- 
factory of jellies, preserves and confectionery. We 
were shown the process of making their delicious 
Guava Jelly, so highly esteemed throughout the 
entire world. The Guava (a fruit resembling the 
orange, though smaller) is thrown into a caldron, and 
sugar added; after it has undergone the necessary 
cooking, being stirred meanwhile, it is strained, and 
poured while hot into wooden boxes of various sizes 
by Chinamen. A jam is also made from the Guava, 
which is much cheaper and very generally used as a 
substitute for butter, for be it understood that butter 
is a luxury unknown to a large majority of the inhabi- 
tants of Cuba, while the really good article cannot be 
found even at hotel tables, not excepting " El Tele- 
gram," the choicest New York butter yielding almost 
immediately to this climate. From the almost bewil- 
dering variety of preserved fruits offered by "La 
Dominica," we have selected a few jars, also some 
Guava jelly, quite certain that they will be fully appre- 
ciated by friends at home. 



32 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



To-morrow (Sunday) we purpose attending early- 
mass at the Cathedral, and will have the opportunity 
of seeing how the Sabbath is observed in Havana. 

While we have endeavored to improve every 
moment of this week there are doubtless some places 
of interest which have escaped our notice, but our 
stay cannot be extended beyond Monday morning, 
when, as before mentioned, we leave for Matanzas, 
stopping en route at Union; our kind friend, Mr. 
McKellar, has favored us with a letter of introduction 
to a prominent machinist there, who will direct us to 
one of the numerous sugar estates in that neighbor- 
hood. We shall proceed to Matanzas the same day ; 
returning to Havana in time for the steamer " City 
of Wilmington" for New York, sailing Thursday P. M. 
in which our passage has already been engaged. 




IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



33 



CHAPTER IV. 

Sunday in Havana. — The Cathedral Services. — La Merced Church. 
— Leaving for Matanzas. — An Early Start. — Railroad Regulations. — 
Stopping at Union. — The Volante.— Our Visit to Sugar-Plantation.— 
The Machinery.— Slaves. — Coolies. — The Nursery.— Some Facts and 
Reflections. 

PI LTHOUGH not expecting that in Havana 
<^p there would be the strictest observance of 
I \ the Sabbath, we were somewhat surprised to 
J J find the day so generally disregarded ; appa- 
rently there was no suspension of business amongst 
the cafes and retail stores, and a greater portion of 
the wholesale establishments were not closed. 

In the afternoon crowds flocked to the " Bull-fight," 
and at evening the Circus, Opera at "Theatre 
Tacon," and other amusements attracted large audi- 
ences : while services held throughout the day at the 
Cathedral and other Catholic Churches, were but 
slimly attended. 

As advised, we attended "High Mass" at eight 
o'clock. On entering the Cathedral we found scarcely 
fifty worshipers, those mostly women and children, 
and at no time during the service did the number 
present exceed one hundred. Highly interesting to 
us was the pompous entrance of the wealthy, aristo- 
cratic families, preceded by their slave, bearing a 
costly rug, which, being spread on the marble floor, 
all would kneel upon it, the slave first arranging 
the ladies' trains. 

We observed that rich and poor, black and white, 
knelt side by side, and well might other denomina- 



34 TO CUBA AND BACK 

tions emulate the noble example of the Catholic 
Church in thus exemplifying that "God is no respect- 
er of persons." 

Behind the altar rail were about a dozen priests, 
all of whom took part in the service. In the absence 
of a choir they chanted the responses with the 
accompaniment of a fine organ located in the gallery. 

Just previous to the ceremony of " Elevating the 
Host," a priest passed through the congregation 
motioning all to kneel, and touched upon the shoulder 
with his staff those who did not immediately comply. 

Soon followed a sermon in Spanish, delivered with 
great rapidity and violent gesticulation, the speaker 
utterly failing, however, to command the attention of 
his audience. A brief ceremonial concluded what 
had impressed us as an exceedingly cold and lifeless 
service, so unlike Catholic worship in the United 
States. Later we visited Havana's most fashionable 
church, " La Merced." The exterior of this edifice 
is far from imposing, but the interior having recently 
undergone a thorough transformation, presented a 
bright and cheerful appearance in contrast with the 
other churches of the city; as at the Cathedral, a' 
large majority of those present were ladies, some of 
them most elegantly dressed, all combining to form 
an interesting and attractive scene. Having under- 
stood that permission of the government had been 
granted a Baptist clergyman, residing at " Hotel San 
Carlos," to hold service in its parlor on Sundays, we 
proceeded there only to find that it had long since 
been discontinued, and we were confronted with the 
fact that on the Island of Cuba there was not a single 
place of Protestant worship. 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



35 



Back again at our hotel we met some who with us 
were desirous of acknowledging the mercy and good- 
ness of God, and assembling, as did the disciples cf 
old, in an upper chamber, we realized the fulfillment 
of that precious promise. " Where two or three are 
met together in My name, there I will be in the midst 
of them." 

While our recollections of the Sunday are not 
wholly unpleasant, we cannot forget how flagrantly 
the day was violated, and though seemingly a con- 
tradiction, we assert that there is no Sabbath in Ha- 
vana. Thankful .are we that our laws in this particu- 
lar are so different ; and may every attempt to de- 
stroy the sanctity of the Sabbath in the United States 
be most earnestly resisted. 

Havana and Matanzas are connected by two rail- 
roads, a direct route, about sixty miles, the other 
more circuitous and nearly thirty miles longer. 

For the purpose of seeing more of the intervening 
country, it is quite usual for tourists to go one route, 
returning by the other, which plan we followed. 

On the road by which Union is accessible, there 
are but two trains daily, 5J a. m., and 2 p. m. ; in 
order to stop there en route, accomplish the visit to 
a sugar-plantation in the vicinity, and yet reach Ma- 
tanzas the same day, we were compelled to take the 
morning train, though why it should start at such an 
early hour we cannot understand ; fortunately the 
depot is situated near by "Hotel El Telegrafo," thus 
lessening the possibility of our being left. 

For nearly half an hour after our train started from 
Havana, the outside world continued shrouded in 
darkness, but the rising sun gradually revealed to us 



the beauty and loveliness of the country through 
which we were passing, a succession of enchant- 
ing scenes and most interesting objects being present- 
ed as we were whirled along, for although there is 
much that is provokingly slow on the Island of Cuba, 
railroad speed cannot be complained of. Taking 
advantage of each stoppage, we would step out upon 
the platform of our car, or perhaps mingle for a mo- 
ment with the motley crowd gathered at the stations ; 
quite ludicrous to us was the signal for starting the 
train, a small hand-bell being rung, reminding us of 
summons to dinner. We noticed that the locomotive 
and cars were of American manufacture, the former 
made at Paterson, N. J. 

On all the railroads of Cuba there are the first, 
second and third-class passenger cars. From the 
first, colored persons are excluded ; fare four cents 
a mile ; in the third-class, which is patronized almost 
entirely by negroes and Chinese, one cent a mile is 
charged, and the cars provided are extremely com- 
mon, the seats merely rough boards and without 
backs. We could discern but little, if any, difference 
between the first and second-class cars, both being 
cane-seated, of very ordinary finish, and notwith- 
standing the presence of ladies, continually filled 
with dense clouds of tobacco-smoke. 

Arriving at Union, we had no difficulty in finding 
Mr. Morrison, to whom our letter of introduction was 
addressed. Upon learning the object of our calling 
upon him, he suggested that we visit " Las Canes," 
the estate of Senor John Peoy, about six miles dis- 
tant, and kindly gave us a letter to the Administrator 
or Overseer of the plantation ; in a few moments the 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



37 



" volante" which had been ordered for us drove up, 
and we could scarcely refrain from laughing, so odd- 
looking was the whole turnout. Imagine, dear reader, 
a gig body slung between, or slightly forward of, two 
immense wheels, the shafts extending under it and 
resting upon an axle behind. In the shafts was har- 
nessed a small horse, and at the left side, in long rope 
traces, another, upon its back, a heavy wooden 
saddle in which sat the driver, dressed in a flaming 
red jacket and the balance of what was once a hand- 
some livery — the whole affair presenting a rather 
worn-out and dilapidated appearance. In Havana 
we had frequently seen these vehicles, but had never 
ridden in one. Before proceeding far we discovered 
the practical use or rather necessity of the "volante" 
in Cuba, for so horrible the condition of the roads, 
so wide and deep the ruts, that nothing else could 
have borne the strain to which our "volante" was sub- 
jected. 

The road led, as it were, through one vast field of 
sugar-cane, and on either side, at intervals, could be 
seen groups of buildings, in size, small villages, the 
surroundings of some sugar-plantation. 

At last " Las Canes" was reached, and upon pre- 
senting our letter we received a cordial welcome. 
The Administrator first took us to an elevated pavil- 
ion, from whence he pointed out the boundaries of 
the estate, comprising thirty-six hundred acres, six- 
teen hundred and fifty at that time planted in sugar- 
cane. He informed us that Senor Peoy employed 
the labor of two hundred slaves and four hundred 
coolies, of whom sixty were connected with the sugar 
mill, the remainder attending to the cultivation and 



gathering of the cane. He also stated that the an- 
nual production of " Las Canes" is nearly thirty-five 
hundred tons of refined sugar, which is packed for 
shipment in boxes of four hundred and twenty-five 
pounds each. We then visited the mill and were 
shown the ponderous steam engine (made at West 
Point, N. Y.,) and all the details of the machinery, 
vats, &c, used in the manufacture of sugar, from the 
rollers which crush the cane to the centrifugals in 
which the sugar is refined. The very full and clear 
explanations of our escort and the engineer, ena- 
bling us to clearly comprehend how sugar is made. 
Regret was expressed that the works were not in ope- 
ration, we being three weeks too early for the grind- 
ing season, which commences in that neighborhood 
about the middle of December ; a great disappoint- 
ment to us, we will admit ; however, this interesting 
sight will be in reservation for us when we again visit 
Cuba. We next walked through the extensive garden 
and examined the many rare and curious plants, 
trees and flowers which it contained. We there saw 
for the first time a coffee-plant, the grains being en- 
closed in what resembled, in color and size, a cran- 
berry. Most wonderful cactus, flowers of the richest 
hues, trees loaded with tropical fruits, all claiming 
our attention. 

Being invited into the mansion, we found a lunch 
had been provided; most enjoyable of all were the 
luscious oranges which had just been plucked for us. 
We were informed that the Grand Duke Alexis had 
lunched from the table at which we were seated and 
had highly praised the flavor of the fruit offered him. 

From the portico we noticed the negroes as they 



came from the fields at noon for dinner, also as they 
returned in procession to their work, apparently a 
cheerful and contented set, their faces wearing a 
happy expression, quite in contrast with the morose 
and sullen countenances of the coolies. We had 
never before been brought in contact with slavery or 
the coolie system, hence everything connected with 
both was highly interesting to us, and as a special 
favor we were permitted to look at their quarters, or 
rather to glance into the walled enclosures, inside of 
which they are locked at night, slaves and coolies 
being kept separate. Afterwards we spent a few mo- 
ments in the nursery, where were hosts of little ne- 
groes, entirely nude, in charge of several old "aunt- 
ies," the mothers being allowed to leave the fields 
only occasionally during the day to nurse their babes. 
Some were in baskets lying fast asleep, not in the 
least disturbed by the swarms of flies which literally 
covered them ; some just able to walk, while others 
were almost large enough to commence work ; the 
whole forming a very comical scene, even now, when 
brought to mind, compelling us to laugh. Since 
1870, by virtue of a Proclamation of Emancipation 
(so-called), children born of slave parents are free, 
provided the planter is not called upon to support 
them, in which case he is entitled to their services 
until they reach twenty-one years of age ; by the 
same Proclamation, slaves over sixty years old were 
declared free. It is very evident that to the enslaved 
this proclamation is only a mockery, while it affords 
a cloak to the planter in authorizing him to deny his 
support to the aged who cannot be of service to him 
any longer. The total abolition of slavery on the 



AO 



TO CUBA AND BA CK 



Island of Cuba is merely a question of time ; already 
the negroes are manifesting a restless spirit, they 
require to be governed with the greatest severity, 
and it is often necessary to shoot the refractory 
slave. Not many years ago the slaves attached to 
several estates united in a revolt ; now to prevent a 
recurrence, different days are observed as the Sab- 
bath upon neighboring plantations. The Cuban 
planters are continually in dread of a general upris- 
ing, which, should it occur, would result in the loss 
of many lives and terrible destruction of property. 

The coolies, as most of our readers know, are 
brought from China, being contracted for there by 
the planters to serve them eight years, the usual 
pay being eight dollars per month with food and 
clothing. They are virtually in a condition of slav- 
ery, as when their term of service has expired 
there is generally a forced renewal of the contract. 
Coolies are pronounced more profitable to the plant- 
ers than the slaves, doing more work, hence are in 
great demand, and their number is increasing each 
year. As before intimated, they seem very sullen 
and morose, and the Overseer informed us that they 
were often inclined to be rebellious ; also that at such 
times, to enforce authority, firearms were unhesitat- 
ingly resorted to. 

We have stated that the annual production of " Las 
Canes" is nearly 3500 tons of sugar, which is all re- 
fined upon the estate. The sugar crop of the whole 
island for the last year is estimated at 796,179 tons. 

The United States is Cuba's best customer, last 
year taking 479,373 tons, or 67.05 per cent, of the 
714,960 tons exported; also 177,519 hogsheads of 



molasses, of the 189,333 exported, being 93 76 per 
cent. 

From another very interesting table we learn that 
our imports from Cuba for the year ending June, 
1873, were valued at $77,365,749 mainly sugar, mo- 
lasses and tobacco as follows : Total sugar and mo- 
lasses, $66,069,031. Tobacco, $9,678,858. Our ex- 
ports to the island during the same period amounting 
to $16,628,788. 

We do not propose to discuss the desirability of 
annexation to the United States, but would remark 
that it seems almost inevitable that some time in the 
future, Cuba will come into possession or control of 
the United States. Visitors to the sugar-plantations 
of Cuba are sure to receive a welcome, but the atten- 
tion shown and facilities afforded us at " Las Canes" 
are quite unusual, particularly as regards the grati- 
fication of our curiosity in reference to slaves and 
coolies. Thanking all for their kindness, not for- 
getting the Engineer, (a most enthusiastic American, 
receiving $170 per month, in gold,) we stepped into 
our "volante," and after another severe jostling, 
arrived safely at Union, having a little spare time, 
in which to enjoy the kindly proffered hospitality of 
Mr. Morrison and his wife, before the departure of 
the train for Matanzas. 



42 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



CHAPTER V. 

Matanzas. — " Hotel Leon de Oro." — Our Morning Drive. — Visit to 
the Caves of the Beautiful Sea. — Valley of the Yumuri. — Returning to 
Havana. — Our Departure for Home. — The Steamer " City of Wilming- 
ton." — A Stormy Voyage. — Some Parting Advice about Visiting Cuba. 

"yW'HE city of Matanzas, with a population of forty 
J [ ^ thousand, is next in size and wealth to Ha- 
I vana. The general characteristics of these 
two cities are the same excepting that the 
streets of Matanzas are wider and the whole city 
presents a cleaner and more attractive appearance. 
Possessing a magnificent harbor and being the ter- 
minus of several railroads, which connect it with the 
principal tobacco and sugar-producing districts of 
the island, Matanzas has become an important ship- 
ping point, and no mean rival of Havana for the 
commercial supremacy of Cuba. There is compara- 
tively little of interest to the tourist in Matanzas, but 
its lovely surroundings will fully repay a visit. At 
the hotel "Leon de Oro" (Lion of Gold,) we expe- 
rienced the kindest treatment ; the gentlemanly pro- 
prietor exerting himself to the utmost to render our 
stay agreeable; his attentions contrasting strongly 
with the studied indifference usually manifested by 
landlords in the United States toward their guests- 
Early in the morning, before breakfast, we started 
in a volante for "Las Cuevas de Bellamar" .(the 
caves of the beautiful sea) ; for some distance the 
road led along the shores of the bay, then over some 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



43 



steep hills, until a broad table land was reached. 
There we found a frame shanty built over the en- 
trance of the cave ; silence reigned within, until the 
loud ringing of a bell awakened one of the guides, 
who arose and admitted us; ranged around the 
building inside were glass cases containing speci- 
mens of the crystals, etc., for sale ; and in one corner 
of the room a bar, alas, too convenient, it being very 
generally patronized by the visitors, particularly after 
they have inspected the cave, the exertion and con- 
sequent fatigue being made the excuse for partaking 
of alcoholic stimulants, nothing milder being kept 
there. Our guide lighted his waxen torch and we 
followed him down a very steep stairway into the 
cavern ; soon we entered an immense vaulted apart- 
ment known as the "Gothic Temple," having mas- 
sive pillars and arches, also what was pointed out 
as the "Organ." Passing on we saw many more 
splendid stalactites and stalagmites, some of most 
curious formation, bearing striking resemblance to 
owls, cats, monkeys' faces, or vases of flowers, while 
to recognize " Columbus' Mantle," " Frozen Water- 
fall," "Mother and Babe," and " Cloak of the Vir- 
gin," required some slight stretch of the imagina- 
tion. After proceeding about one and a half miles, 
at which point we were three hundred feet below the 
surface, we returned to the entrance by another and 
more difficult route, and right glad were we when 
the outer world was regained, for, as is the case in 
all caves, the heat was almost stifling. These caves, 
though not so extensive as the Mammoth Cave of 
Kentucky, are pronounced even more beautiful and 
interesting. There are portions still unexplored, and 



even greater wonders may yet be revealed. We can 
cordially endorse the saying : " He who has not 
seen the caves of Bellamar has not seen Cuba." 

The ' ' valley of the Yumuri " is a narrow gorge, about 
four miles long. Through it flows a tiny river, from 
which the valley takes its name ; it is seen to great- 
est advantage from the summit of the " Cumbre," 
distant from Matanzas four miles. From this point 
the eye scans the entire valley — clothed in richest 
verdure, with groups of palms scattered here and 
there, it is indeed charming and picturesque, such a 
scene as cannot fail to impress itself upon the mind 
of the beholder, " a thing of beauty which is a joy 
forever." Descending the mountain we had a pleas- 
ing view of Matanzas, its bay, and, in the distance, 
old ocean. 

Delightful indeed are the recollections of our stay 
at Matanzas, and fondly do we cherish the desire 
again to visit that charming locality. 

We returned to Havana by the shorter or more 
direct railroad route, finding it decidedly preferable, 
there being a greater variety of scenery, while the 
country showed the highest state of cultivation ; all 
about us the orange-groves, immense sugar estates, 
vast fields of bananas, and a bewildering array of 
tropical trees and plants. Arriving at Regla, ihe 
town opposite Havana, we took ferry boat, and while 
crossing the bay had a fine view of the city and 
its shipping. Seeking again " Hotel el Telegrafo," 
where we had left our baggage, we remained there 
in the enjoyment of its comforts, until starting for 
home. Having obtained the necessary permit to 
leave the island, we bade adieu to the proprietor and 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



45 



clerks at the hotel, to whose kindness and considera- 
tion we must bear testimony, and proceeded to the 
steamer, not, however, before calling at y6 Calle-de- 
Cuba, to thank Mr. McKellar for his counsel and aid 
to a " stranger in a strange land." Stepping into a 
small sail-boat we were soon on board the " City of 
Wilmington" which lay at anchor about half a mile 
from the shore. At last the Cu torn House officials, 
who had been on the steamer since its arrival at Ha- 
vana, took their departure. All being in readiness, 
we steamed slowly out of the harbor, "homeward 
bound." 

We do not purpose entering into the details of our 
return voyage, but cannot forbear an acknowledg- 
ment of the kind attentions shown us by Captain 
Reed and all others connected with the "City of 
Wilmington." 

We were denied the delightful weather which made 
our outward passage so pleasant. Scarcely had the 
coast of Cuba faded from view when a storm arose, 
and, continuing until our destination was reached, 
interfered greatly with our comfort and enjoyment ; 
but the opportunity afforded us of witnessing, in all its 
terrible grandeur, a storm at sea, was ample compen- 
sation. As we proceeded northward the temperature 
gradually lowered, until tropical heat was exchanged 
for the chilliness of winter. Repeating the introduc- 
tion to our first article : 

Thursday, November 27th, we bid adieu to Cuba, 
its tropical greenness and beauty ; five days later 
we see the snow-clad .highlands of New York and 
are chilled by winter's icy breath. In visiting the 
"Queen of the Antilles," the land of orange-grove 



46 



TO CUBA AND BACK 



and palm, a long-cherished desire has been grati- 
fied, and our fullest expectations met in its strange 
sights and luxuriant growth, our enjoyment marred 
only by the sad, sad picture of " Man's inhumanity 
to man," the cruelty, ignorance and degradation so 
prevalent throughout the Island of Cuba. Returning 
to the United States, more than ever do we appre- 
ciate the blessing of civil and religious liberty, and 
deeply grateful are we that our lot has been cast in 
a Christian land. 

Our parting advice, dear reader, is, visit Cuba; 
nowhere on the face of the globe do customs and 
manners contrast more strongly with our own, no- 
where is everything more quaint and strange. As a 
foreign trip, all things considered, particularly time 
and expense, " To Cuba and Back in Twenty-Two 
Days" is unsurpassed. The ocean voyage will 
strengthen and invigorate, and you will be charmed 
with the beauty and loveliness of the tropical isle. 
Yes, go to Cuba, and you will discover that our 
description is not exaggerated — rather " that the half 
has not been told." 



XKB &Z7S. 



IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 



47 



NO TM 



We must not be understood as advising a visit to 
Cuba during the summer months, or until every trace 
of the yellow fever has disappeared, usually not be- 
fore November. A very suitable time to visit the 
island is about the middle of December, when the 
heat has moderated and sugar-making upon the 
plantations is at its height ; or, delaying the visit 
until February, be in Havana during the " Carni- 
val," which is described as very amusing. The pre- 
sent disturbed state of affairs in Cuba is likely to 
continue, possibly to increase, but one need not ven- 
ture too near the theatre of operations, and by ab- 
staining from the expression of any opinion upon 
the merits of the rebellion, can avoid everything like 
insult or danger. 



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